Padstow

Padstow is best known for its "'Obby 'Oss" festival. Although its origins are unclear, it most likely stems from an ancient fertility rite, perhaps the Celtic festival of Beltane. The festival starts at midnight on May Eve when townspeople sing the "Morning Song". In the morning, the town is dressed with greenery and flowers are placed around a maypole. The climax arrives when male dancers cavort through the town dressed as one of two 'Obby 'Osses, the "Old" and the "Blue Ribbon" 'Obby 'Osses; as the name suggests, they are stylised kinds of horses. The blue ribbon Oss emerges from the Padstow Institute he has come on the scene since the First World war being the temperance oss' developed by the towns folk as an alternative to the drunkenness associated with the original. Prodded on by acolytes known as "Teasers", each wears a gruesome mask and black frame-hung cape under which they try to catch young maidens as they pass through the town. Finally, at midnight on May Day, the crowd sings of the 'Obby 'Oss death, until its resurrection the following May Eve. On Boxing Day and New Year's Day, it was a tradition for some residents to don blackface and parade through the town singing 'minstrel' songs. The origin of this custom, once called "Darky Day" is unknown, although it has been speculated that it is associated with freedoms given to the occupants of passing slave ships on those days. Folklorists associate the practice with the widespread British custom of blacking up for mumming and morris dancing, and suggest there is no record of slave ships coming to Padstow. Once an unknown local charity event, the day has recently become controversial, perhaps since a description was published. Also some now suggest it is racist for white people to "black up" for any reason Although "outsiders" have linked the day with racism, Padstonians insist that this is not the case and are incredulous at both description and allegations. Long before the controversy Charlie Bate, noted Padstow folk advocate, recounted that in the 1970s the content and conduct of the day were carefully reviewed to avoid potential offence. The Devon and Cornwall Constabulary have taken video evidence twice and concluded there were no grounds for prosecution Nonetheless protests resurface annually. The day has now been renamed mummer's day in an attempt to avoid offence and identify it more clearly with established British tradition. The debate has now been subject to academic scrutiny Padstow was originally named Petroc-stow, after the Welsh missionary St. Petroc, who landed at nearby Trebetherick around AD 500. Padstow isn't usually thought of as a "Viking town", but it was near Padstow that in 722 AD the Britons of Cornwall united with the Vikings of Denmark to destroy an invading Anglo-Saxon army led by Ine of Wessex at "Hehil". The Saxons army was slaughtered, and this decisive battle gave Cornwall 100 years of freedom from attacks by Wessex.

The Harbour

During the mid-nineteenth century, ships carrying timber from Canada (particularly Quebec) would arrive at Padstow and offer cheap travel to passengers wishing to emigrate. Shipbuilders in the area would also benefit from the quality of their cargoes. Among the ships that sailed were the barques Clio, Belle and Voluna; and the brig Dalusia. Traditionally a fishing port, Padstow is now a popular tourist destination; although some of its former fishing fleet remains, it is mainly a yachting haven on a dramatic coastline with few easily navigable harbours.

Hawkers Cove

A beautiful sandy expanse that is easily accessible at low tide via a walk along the shore from just outside the harbour or via the footpath up past the Memorial Monument on the headland that leads to the sleeping dragon that is stepper point. Hawkers Cove is adjacent to Daymer Bay, which lays a boat ride away on the opposite shore.

Padstow Info

Between 1899 and 1967 the Bodmin-Wadebridge railway extended to Padstow. The old railway line is now the Camel Trail, a footpath and cycle path which is popular owing to its picturesque route beside the River Camel. On the other side of the river, a ferry runs between Padstow and Rock.  Another long-distance footpath known as the Saints' Way starts in Padstow and ends at Fowey on the other side of Cornwall. The influence of restaurateur Rick Stein can be seen in the port, and tourists travel from long distances to eat at one of his restaurants or cafés. However, the Stein led boom has caused rocketing house prices in Padstow and surrounding areas, as people buy second or holiday homes there. This has meant significant numbers of locals cannot afford to buy property of their own now, with prices often well over 10 times the average salary of around £15 000.